波はどこへ帰るのか
Last night while I was on Messenger a long-lost surf friend started a chat with me.
She used to be my surf-buddy.
I knew her on my first year of surf and since then we had gone for several surf trips together and countless surf trips across the strait. We had sat at the line up together singing songs of the sea and listening to whispers of wind and the crashing of waves. We have walked many miles, from one point to another, surfboards in hands and soles burnt by hot asphalt or sand. We have given waves to one another, laughed when wiping out, gave high fives for each good ride caught, ogled at surferboys, and got mad with the cab drivers for making us late to the ferry terminal.
She was a better surfer than me, just for the fact that she will not hesitate to go in no matter what the water condition is. I won points only on the basis that I observed the rule of right of way and I'd look left right front and back before taking any wave where she would've taken any wave and dropped in on anyone. She always have cuts and stitches because of this.
She told me then that we must have been sisters in our past life, borne to poor fishermen parents, where we would travel miles to look for fish. I thought she should've injected more optimism in her dream of our past life but she liked that story.
And then she started her dragon boat thingy. I knew why she did that. She was desperate to find her direction before it becomes too late. But instead of sitting down and have a proper look at it she started running around like a chicken with tail on fire. And then she never came to surf anymore. And then she only called me once when she needed me to be her visa guarantor. The last time I heard of her was from some other surf friend who said that she was going back to Japan.
So last night she typed to me.
She said that she had been thinking about me since she returned to Japan. She still said that she doesn't know what to do in her life and that she'd rather die. I have been wanting her to sit down and deal with this honestly with herself but she has always buried her head in the sand. She said it's hard for people to change so don't expect it. She said thanks for all the things I've done for her and she wished me happiness.
Two years ago we still talked of surfing together when we are old grandmothers. Last night I couldn't even ask her if we'll ever be at the line up together again.
I guess things just do change.
She used to be my surf-buddy.
I knew her on my first year of surf and since then we had gone for several surf trips together and countless surf trips across the strait. We had sat at the line up together singing songs of the sea and listening to whispers of wind and the crashing of waves. We have walked many miles, from one point to another, surfboards in hands and soles burnt by hot asphalt or sand. We have given waves to one another, laughed when wiping out, gave high fives for each good ride caught, ogled at surferboys, and got mad with the cab drivers for making us late to the ferry terminal.She was a better surfer than me, just for the fact that she will not hesitate to go in no matter what the water condition is. I won points only on the basis that I observed the rule of right of way and I'd look left right front and back before taking any wave where she would've taken any wave and dropped in on anyone. She always have cuts and stitches because of this.
She told me then that we must have been sisters in our past life, borne to poor fishermen parents, where we would travel miles to look for fish. I thought she should've injected more optimism in her dream of our past life but she liked that story.
And then she started her dragon boat thingy. I knew why she did that. She was desperate to find her direction before it becomes too late. But instead of sitting down and have a proper look at it she started running around like a chicken with tail on fire. And then she never came to surf anymore. And then she only called me once when she needed me to be her visa guarantor. The last time I heard of her was from some other surf friend who said that she was going back to Japan.
So last night she typed to me.
She said that she had been thinking about me since she returned to Japan. She still said that she doesn't know what to do in her life and that she'd rather die. I have been wanting her to sit down and deal with this honestly with herself but she has always buried her head in the sand. She said it's hard for people to change so don't expect it. She said thanks for all the things I've done for her and she wished me happiness.
Two years ago we still talked of surfing together when we are old grandmothers. Last night I couldn't even ask her if we'll ever be at the line up together again.
I guess things just do change.
posted by Strawberrysurf at 9:16 pm
2 Comments:
i hope it's not who i think it is... =(
Hey Edwin!!!! How did you find out about my blog? Sadly it might just be who you think it is...... =( There will be a cherating surf comp 25-26 nov.. unfortunately, like you I am tied to work these past few months so wont attend....
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