Saturday, October 14, 2006

Once Upon a Time at the Line-Up

I used to know a surferboy. Long is his hair and burned by the sun is his skin. We first met while surfing side by side and he asked me my name. We surfed together for over two years: across the strait, in Bali's water, in China Beach, even in the chlorine water of man-made surf pool.

He came back yesterday. I sent him off early this morning.

It would've been so much easier to come home. Mais non. Je peux pas.

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